In the Charcuterie

In the Charcuterie : The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods

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A definitive resource for the modern meat lover, with 125 recipes and fully-illustrated step-by-step instructions for making brined, smoked, cured, skewered, braised, rolled, tied, and stuffed meats at home; plus a guide to sourcing, butchering, and cooking with the finest cuts. The tradition of preserving meats is one of the oldest of all the food arts. Nevertheless, the craft charcuterie movement has captured the modern imagination, with scores of charcuteries opening across the country in recent years, and none is so well-loved and highly regarded as the San Francisco Bay Area's Fatted Calf. In this much-anticipated debut cookbook, Fatted Calf co-owners and founders Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller present an unprecedented array of meaty goods, with recipes for salumi, pâtés, roasts, sausages, confits, and everything in between. A must-have for the meat-loving home cook, DIY-types in search of a new pantry project, and professionals looking to broaden their repertoire, In the Charcuterie boasts more than 125 recipes and fully-illustrated instructions for making brined, smoked, cured, skewered, braised, rolled, tied, and stuffed meats at home, plus a primer on whole animal butchery. Take your meat cooking to the next level: Start with a whole hog middle, stuff it with a piquant array of herbs and spices, then roll it, tie it, and roast it for a ridiculously succulent, gloriously porky take on porchetta called The Cuban. Or, brandy your own prunes at home to stuff a decadent, caul fat-lined Duck Terrine. If it's sausage you crave, follow Boetticher and Miller's step-by-step instructions for grinding, casing, linking, looping, and smoking your own homemade Hot Links or Kolbász. With its impeccably tested recipes and lush, full-color photography, this instructive and inspiring tome is destined to become the go-to reference on charcuterie--and a treasure for anyone fascinated by the art of cooking with and preserving meat.
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Product details

  • Hardback | 352 pages
  • 229 x 254 x 35.56mm | 1,596.65g
  • TEN SPEED PRESS
  • Berkeley, United States
  • English
  • 250 Full Colour Photos
  • 1607743434
  • 9781607743439
  • 185,578

Table of contents

Introduction 
1 The Charcutier’s Pantry
Five Spice  
Herbes de Provence  
Preserved Meyer Lemons  
Dried Fruit in Brandy  
The Charcutier’s Wild Mushroom Duxelles  
Funghi Sott’olio 
 
2 Provisioning the Larder
Truffled Crema di Lardo  
Flaky Leaf Lard Biscuits  
Roasted Nettle Butter Chicken with Spring Vegetables  
Basic Rich Broth  
Basic Rich Roasted Broth  
Pork and Duck Noodle Soup Broth  
Crespelle and Chanterelle Mushrooms in Game Bird Broth  
Creamy Semolina with Roasted Chicken Broth, Greens, and Pecorino  
Sausage Confit  
Whole Duck Confit  
Classic Cassoulet  
 
3 In the Butcher Shop
Gingery Braised Duck Legs  
Chopped Chicken Liver Crostini  
Chicken-Fried Quail  
Rabbit Cacciatore  
Five-Spice Baby Back Ribs  
Chermoula-Marinated Pork Chops  
Pork Bollito Misto  
Fennel-Dusted Pork Shoulder Steaks  
Tonno di Maiale  
Pig Head Pozole  
Pickled Pork Tongues  
Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout  
Goat Shoulder Birria  
Peposo  
Rib Eye for Two  
Carne Cruda 
Rare Roast Beef  
 
4 Skewered, Rolled,Tied & Stuffed
Pork Brochettes with Herbes de Provence 
Harissa-Marinated Lamb Kebabs  
Marsha’s Grilled Rabbit Spiedini with Chicories, Olives, and Almonds  
Pancetta-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin  
Pork Country Rib with Sherry, Garlic, Thyme, and Pimentón  
Rabbit Porchetta  
Brasato al Midolo  
The Cuban  
Fig-and-Sausage Stuffed Quail  
Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts  
Wild Mushroom–Stuffed Pork Rib Roast  
Duck Stuffed with Farro, Figs, and Hazelnuts  
 
5 Sausage, Salami & their Cousins
The Ugly Burger  
Duck and Lemongrass Sausage Patties  
Lamb and Herb Meatballs  
Oaxacan-Style Chorizo  
Bockwurst  
Blood Sausage with Caramelized Apples and Cognac  
Cotechino  
Belgian Beer Sausage  
Kolbász  
Hot Links  
Cacciatorini  
Saucisse Sec aux Herbes de Provence  
Pepperoni  
Sbriciolona  
 
6 Pâtés: Potted Meats, Terrines & Loaves
Rabbit Rillettes  
Ciccioli  
Oxtail Terrine  
Headcheese  
Meat Loaf  
Forager’s Terrine  
Spiced Lamb Terrine  
Duck Terrine with Brandied Prunes  
Veal and Chicken Galantine  
Cou Farci  
Duck Liver Mousse with Armagnac Cream  
Foie Gras Terrine with Madeira Gelée  
Foie Gras Torchon with Port and Quatre Épices  
 
7 Brined, Cured & Smoked
All-Purpose Poultry Brine  
Garlic Brine  
Cider-Brined Pork Porterhouse Chops  
Smoked Ham Hocks  
Braised Ham Hocks  
Picnic Ham  
Croque Monsieur 
Choucroute Garni  
Corned Beef Brisket  
Pancetta Arrotolata  
Bresaola  
Guanciale  
Brown Sugar–Cured Bacon  
Pastrami  
Pulled Pork  
 
8 Accoutrements
Bread and Butter Pickles 
Classic Cucumber Dills  
Pickled Red Onion Rings  
Loulou’s Garden Sweet-and-Savory Fruits  
Marinated Olives  
Root Vegetable Chowchow  
Traditional Sauerkraut  
Cherry Mostarda  
Green Tomato Chutney  
Black Coffee and Bourbon Barbecue Sauce  
Chile Tomato Sauce 
Horseradish Salsa Verde  
Céleri Rémoulade  
Simple Beans  
Cowboy Beans 
Fagioli all’Uccelletto  
 
 
Butcher Shop Lingo  
Sources  
Acknowledgments 
Measurement Conversion Charts  
Index
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Review quote

"A Best Cookbook of 2013"--Sunset "No one in America makes more diverse charcuterie, more consistently, using better product than the Fatted Calf. And no American has ever written a more comprehensive book on the subject--this is a must-read."
--Patrick Martins, founder of Slow Food USA and the Heritage Radio Network, president of Heritage Foods USA "If you love chopping, grinding, salting, stuffing, and curing--or anything deliciously handmade--then this is the book for you! Taylor and Toponia show you how to make a wide array of meaty goods, from simple gingery duck legs to a hunter-style sausage."
--April Bloomfield, chef/owner of the Spotted Pig, the Breslin, and the John Dory Oyster Bar, and author of A Girl and Her Pig "This book is incredibly well written. The charcuterie recipes are outstanding, and Taylor and Toponia's clear instruction make the process less intimidating and more accessible. The other recipes are very inspired--their diverse flavors and preparations will take you on a great little culinary odyssey."
--Traci Des Jardins, chef/owner of Jardinière and Mijita Cocina "With In the Charcuterie, Taylor and Toponia have created the New American cured meat manifesto. Like a plump, overstuffed sausage, this incredible piece of work--the product of years of experience and a lifetime of passion--is brimming with useable, accessible recipes that are fit for the home cook and the professional chef alike. This book sets the bar for neotraditional charcuterie makers."
--Matt Jennings, chef/owner of Farmstead "To me, there is nothing more exhilarating than butchering, cooking, and preserving meat. Understanding the process and respecting the ingredients is key, and it's clear from In the Charcuterie that Taylor and Toponia have devoted their lives to mastering this craft. I always emphasize the importance of butchery to my cooks...now I can just buy them this book!"
--Marc Vetri, chef/owner of Vetri and author of Rustic Italian Food and Il Viaggio di Vetri One of the best-known of the new charcutiers is the Bay Area's Fatted Calf, so it's probably only reasonable that when founders Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller wrote a cookbook that they should call it In the Charcuterie, despite the fact that that title sells the book short. In the Charcuterie is much more than a guide to hams and salumi. In reality, it's nothing less than a thorough overview of our growing infatuation with good meat. There are guides to choosing cuts, to parsing the differences among the heritage breeds and to DIY butchery large and small. And, of course, there's lots of good information on how to cook meat. But where the book really shines -- and at least partially justifies the title -- are on the kinds of quick-cooked charcuterie items that are easily approachable by any reasonably ambitious home cook: pâtés, terrines, confits and meat pickles.
--LA Times
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About Taylor Boetticher

TAYLOR BOETTICHER and TOPONIA MILLER are the co-owners and co-founders of the Fatted Calf Charcuterie, which opened in 2003 and now has shops in Napa and San Francisco, a stall in the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, and a mail-order store. The couple has been featured in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, where the Fatted Calf was included in the editors' annual list of their 100 favorite food items and trends. Visit www.fattedcalf.com.
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Rating details

182 ratings
4.3 out of 5 stars
5 47% (86)
4 39% (71)
3 11% (20)
2 2% (4)
1 1% (1)
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