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Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing

Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing

Paperback

By (author) Tony Butt, By (author) Paul Russell, By (author) Rick Grigg

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  • Publisher: Alison Hodge
  • Format: Paperback | 142 pages
  • Dimensions: 190mm x 244mm x 12mm | 481g
  • Publication date: 27 June 1905
  • Publication City/Country: Cornwall
  • ISBN 10: 0906720362
  • ISBN 13: 9780906720363
  • Edition: 2, Revised
  • Edition statement: 2nd Revised edition
  • Illustrations note: 30 illustrations, 54 figures, 5 tables, 7 graphs, 13 charts
  • Sales rank: 74,202

Product description

Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf. Where do waves come from? What makes every one different? Why do some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three? What factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break? Surf Science answers all these questions and many more. It is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.

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Author information

Dr Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and Post Doctoral Research Fellow at the University of Plymouth, UK. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines, and runs a wave prediction website. Dr Paul Russell was twice European Surfing Champion and is now Reader in Coastal Dynamics at the School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth. Richard (Rick) Grigg pioneered big-wave surfing on the North Shore of O'ahu, Hawaii, and is now Professor of Oceanography at the University of Hawaii.

Review quote

'an excellent resource for surfers who want a simple understanding of the how's and why's of wave creation and surf conditions. ... 'The large-scale, worldwide wind/weather patterns were explained exceptionally well ... Group propagation was fascinating ... There were great explanations of how bathymetry (ocean bottom contour) and refraction helps characterize waves.' (hisurfadvisory.com, October 2004) 'explains in simple, easy to understand fashion, the dynamics behind wave creation, from how swells are generated to how topographical variables affect wave shape and quality. For that reason alone, it should be a requisite read for all coastal activists concerned about beach and surf preservation.' (Surfrider Foundation, Making Waves, 20-5/15) 'holds interest for anyone who loves the sea and wants to understand it better. The authors present sophistictaed concepts such as swell generation and dispersal, and the influence of temperature variation and the tides on surf, in accessible, engaging language' (The Age, theage.com.au, 20.11.04) 'jam-packed with many helpful graphs, diagrams, photographs' (Longboard Magazine, February 2005) 'with the release of Surf Science, we now hold all the technical knowledge we need - at our fingertips. ... '... Surf Science provides readers with an easy-to-read, in depth explanation of the topic with a specific focus on how the conditions influence our sport. ' ... This crash course in wave prediction not only shows how to read complicated satellite and computer models, but it also contains a wide-ranging list of additional resources for further study.' (Eastern Surf, vol. 13:100, October 2004) 'clearly reaches out to both surfers and those interested in the surf ... great color graphics and color photos. 'The book is well-written and well-organized ... 'Another attractive aspect of this book is the historical perspective provided regarding wave research.' (David F. Naar, Associate Professor, College of Marine Science, University of South Florida, Oceanography, vol. 18, no. 2, June 2005) 'Extremely well-illustrated and compiled.' (Publishers Weekly, PW Daily for Booksellers, 25.08.04)

Table of contents

Preface 1 The Paradox of Impossible Knowledge 2 Large-Scale Weather Patterns 3 The Formation of a Depression 4 The Growth of Waves on the Ocean 5 Propagation of Free-Travelling Swell 6 Refraction 7 Wave-Breaking 8 How Waves Move Sediment 9 Surfing in the Storm 10 Local Winds on the Coast 11 The Temperature of the Water 12 The Tides 13 World Wave Climate 14 Forecasting the Waves Further Reading Glossary-Index Acknowledgements