Better Bouldering

Better Bouldering

Paperback Falcon Guides How to Climb

By (author) John Sherman

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  • Publisher: Globe Pequot Press
  • Format: Paperback | 304 pages
  • Dimensions: 188mm x 234mm x 18mm | 748g
  • Publication date: 8 November 2011
  • Publication City/Country: Old Saybrook
  • ISBN 10: 0762770317
  • ISBN 13: 9780762770311
  • Edition: 2, Revised
  • Edition statement: 2nd Revised edition
  • Illustrations note: black & white illustrations, colour illustrations, colour line drawings
  • Sales rank: 168,451

Product description

This thoroughly revised and updated new edition of Better Bouldering presents all the techniques and tricks gleaned from the thirty-year bouldering career of John Sherman, America's most noted and notorious bouldering guru. Sharing the most recent trends in techniques, equipment, and injury treatment and prevention, Sherman imparts his insider knowledge of the sport through colorful instructional text and "combat" stories from his own bouldering career-allowing both beginning and accomplished boulderers to learn from the author's mistakes rather than their own. Among the guest contributors for this new edition are top boulderers Paul Robinson, the 2008 ABS national champion, writing on gyms and competitions; and Angie Payne, the first American female to climb V13, who shares a woman's perspective on bouldering. More than 300 new color photos taken at the most popular bouldering locales throughout America and the world clearly demonstrate in dramatic fashion the concepts explained in the always entertaining text.

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Author information

John "Verm" Sherman is arguably the most prolific and experienced American boulderer, in the last 36 years having visited over 600 areas and climbing an estimated 15,000 to 20,000 boulder problems, thousands of them first ascents. During the mid-80s to early-90s, Sherman was the foremost developer of bouldering at Hueco Tanks, Texas, one of the world's premier bouldering areas. He established over 400 first ascents there. While writing the first Hueco Tanks bouldering guide, he climbed all but one of the 900+ problems in the book. In the process he introduced the V-system of grading boulder problems which became the widely accepted standard throughout North America. Sherman also designed the Kinnaloa Sketchpad, the first commercially available bouldering pad, upon which the majority of subsequent designs are based. He is particularly fond of ground-up highball first ascents--high risk propositions requiring outstanding skill and judgment-- passion that started in the pre-pad era and continues today.Sherman is the author of several books on bouldering, including Better Bouldering (Falcon), Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories, and Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America.

Review quote

Praise for the previous edition: "The most sophisticated 'how-to' book I've seen on any climbing subject." -Climbing Magazine

Back cover copy

"The most sophisticated 'how-to' book I've seen on any climbing subject." Climbing magazine. This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Better Bouldering presents all the techniques and tricks gleaned from the thirty-six-year bouldering career of John Sherman, America's most noted and notorious bouldering guru. Sharing the most recent trends in techniques, equipment, and injury treatment and prevention, Sherman imparts his insider knowledge of the sport through colorful instructional text and "combat" stories from his own bouldering career allowing both beginning and accomplished boulderers to learn from the author's experiences rather than their own mistakes.Among the guest contributors for this new edition are top boulderers Paul Robinson, the 2008 ABS national champion, writing on gyms and competitions; Angie Payne, the first American female to climb V13, who shares a woman's perspective on bouldering; and Dave MacLeod, Scottish ubertrad leader, exercise physiologist, and V13 boulderer, imparting his take on bouldering-specific training. More than 300 new color photos taken at the most popular bouldering locales in the world including Bishop, Hueco Tanks, Rocklands, and Fontainebleau clearly and dramatically demonstrate the concepts explained in the always entertaining text."

Table of contents

1. Gear2. Safety3. The Art of Dynamic Movement4. Finesse and Power5. More Bouldering Tricks6. The Mental Game7. Strategies and Avoiding Mistakes8. Health and Injuries9. First Ascents10. More Bouldering Games11. Training12. Paths to Success