The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts

The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts


By (author) David McMillan, By (author) Frederic Morin, By (author) Meredith Erickson, By (author) David Chang

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  • Publisher: TEN SPEED PRESS
  • Format: Hardback | 288 pages
  • Dimensions: 238mm x 260mm x 26mm | 1,501g
  • Publication date: 15 November 2011
  • Publication City/Country: Berkeley CA
  • ISBN 10: 1607740141
  • ISBN 13: 9781607740148
  • Illustrations note: 125 Full-Colour Illustrations
  • Sales rank: 53,456

Product description

Located in a working-class neighborhood of Montreal, Joe Beef is at the center of Montreal's growing reputation as a culinary destination. Often referred to as the Paris of North America, Montreal is the second-largest French-speaking city in the world, and like France, food is at the heart of its identity. In "The Art of Living According to Joe Beef," co-owners/chefs FrEdEric Morin and David McMillan, along with writer and former Joe Beef staff member Meredith Erickson, present 135 unforgettable recipes showcasing Joe Beef's unconventional approach to French market cuisine. Advocating the use of ingredients from local or family-owned producers whenever possible, this collection of hearty dishes delivers. The Strip Loin Steak comes complete with ten variations, Kale for a Hangover wisely advises the cook to eat and then go to bed, and the Marjolaine includes tips for welding your own cake mold. Joe Beef's most popular dishes are also represented, such as Spaghetti Homard-Lobster, Foie Gras Breakfast Sandwich, Pork Fish Sticks, and Pojarsky de Veau (a big, moist meatball served on a bone). The "coup de grAce" is the Smorgasbord--Joe Beef's version of a Scandinavian open-faced sandwich--with thirty different toppings. This cookbook (of sorts) is packed with personal stories, Fred's favorite train trips, Dave's ode to French Burgundy, instructions for building a backyard smoker and making absinthe, a Montreal travel guide, and "beaucoup plus." With nearly every recipe photographed in exquisite detail, this nostalgic yet utterly modern cookbook is a groundbreaking guide to living an outstanding culinary life.

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Author information

FrEdEric Morin (right) is the co-owner/chef of Joe Beef, Liverpool House, and McKiernan Luncheonette. He attended L'Ecole HOteliEre des Laurentides, worked at Jean-Talon Market selling peppers and onions, and served as garde-manger at ToquE! and chef de cuisine at Globe before opening Joe Beef. When he's not gardening, tinkering in his workshop, or at the restaurants, Fred can be found at home in Montreal with his wife (and the third partner in the restaurants), Allison, and their two sons. David McMillan (left) is the co-owner/chef of Joe Beef, Liverpool House, and McKiernan Luncheonette. Born and raised in Quebec City, David has been holding court in many of Montreal's classic restaurants for close to twenty years. He still practices the "cuisine Bourgeoise" he learned from his mentor, Nicolas Jongleux, and from living in the Burgundy region of France. When David isn't at the restaurants, he can be found painting at his studio in Saint Henri or spending time at his cottage in Kamouraska, Quebec, with his wife, Julie, and their two daughters. One of the original members of the Joe Beef staff, Meredith Erickson (center) has written for various magazines, newspapers, and television series. Currently collaborating on several books, Meredith splits her time between Montreal and London.

Review quote

Finalist, IACP Awards 2012, Chefs & Restaurants Category Winner of Food52's Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, 2012 "As I leafed through the pages I came to be charmed by their story and the unconventional way the book is laid out. There is a sense of history to the book and their deep love of Montreal is evident throughout. There is richness in detail and usually a lovely idiosyncratic story for each recipe that makes the book as much of an engaging read as a straightforward cookbook." --Judge Alice Waters, Food52's Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, 2012 "One of the best cookbooks of the year. . . the stories by FrEdEric Morin and David McMillan are worth the price." --Edward Ash-Milby, Buyer at Barnes & Noble "This bizarre and spectacular book isn't like the other on my list--but then again, it's not much like any other book I know of, cooking-related or otherwise. . . a kind of artist's statement for an idiosyncratic and unlikely restaurant." --Mother Jones, Favorite Cookbooks of 2011, 12/3/11 "Proof of Morin's and McMillan's creative culinary genius." --USA Today, 11/22/11 "Joe Beef is a Montreal restaurant worthy of a special trip north, as David Chang attests in his foreword to this "cookbook of sorts." The free-form tome embodies the delicious chaos of the place, and the eccentric interests and oversize appetites of the men behind it--chefs and co-owners FrEdEric Morin and David McMillan. There's history here, including the tale of Joe Beef himself, the 19th-century Irish immigrant, Canadian tavern owner and "friend of the working man" for whom the restaurant is named. In addition to recipes, there are chapters on the history of Montreal eating (spotlighting the "casse-croute" tradition of ramshackle snack shacks) and on trains--old-school rail travel being one of Morin's enduring obsessions. Cook this: Spaghetti "homard"-lobster in bacon-brandy cream; stuffed dining-car calf liver in Parmesan-mustard crust; Joe Beef foie gras and cheddar cheese "Double Down." --Time Out New York, The Season's Best Cookbooks, 11/15/11 "I believe everyone should eat at Joe Beef at least once. And I think everyone should buy this cookbook." --Food Republic, 11/14/11 "Inventive, meaty, badass cooking. And with these chefs, you get the sense that food and only food is what matters.", BA Daily blog, 10/18/11 "Beautiful, hip, both feminine and masculine at the same time. . . . The book conveys an entire atmosphere, a way of relating to food, yes, but also time, and love, and communication. The recipes are sexy, but in the way that Montreal is sexy. If you have been to Montreal, I'm guessing you know what I mean." --Eating from the Ground Up, 10/11/11 "If one judges a cookbook by its idiosyncrasies, this fall's best comes from Canada. "The Art of Living According to Joe Beef," by FrEdEric Morin and David McMillan, will teach you how to cook a horse steak, make absinthe, tour Canada by train and cure a hangover (kale with bacon and fried egg). . . . But what makes this cookbook so great--and Momofuku Ko chef David Chang's "favorite restaurant in the world," according to his foreword--is the confidence, humor and lack of pretense that allows Morin and McMillan to serve a mound of caviar next to a martini garnished with a Vienna sausage. Oh, those Canadians." --Departures, 9/15/11 "This book, from the folks behind the Montreal restaurant David Chang calls his "favorite restaurant in the world," covers a fantastic range of topics. Sure, there are recipes, but there is also a history of the restaurants of Montreal, a paean to the trains of Canada, "Le Grand Setup de Caviar," a thirty ingredient smorgasbord, a martini recipe that calls for a Vienna sausage garnish, and plans for building a smoker yourself." --Eater National, 9/12/11 "From the acclaimed Montreal restaurant come personality-packed tales of food and drink, like instructions for building a smoker and distilling absinthe." --DETAILS, The Year's 10 Best Cookbooks, September 2011 Issue "Touching on many of this fall's themes--and simultaneously defying categorization--is "The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts" by David McMillan, FrEdEric Morin, and Meredith Erickson. While it is tied to a restaurant (Montreal bistro Joe Beef), it makes nods to regular folks, too, including, for instance, instructions for building a backyard smoker. But with recipes for Swedish sandwiches, recollections of favorite train trips, and a love letter to French burgundy, this is one cookbook that--happily, for us--eschews all the trends." --Publishers Weekly, Top 10 Fall Cookbooks, 6/27/11 "A savvy page-turner full of meats, oysters, attitude and irreverence." --Publishers Weekly, 6/20/11 "Fred, Dave, and Meredith are a significant part of what makes Montreal dangerous--and delicious--to anyone who loves food. The words "Joe Beef" are synonymous with good food and good times." --ANTHONY BOURDAIN "This is the most amazing cookbook of the last ten years. As a longtime fan of the restaurant and its staff, I can tell you that Joe Beef is more than just an eatery. It embodies a way of looking at food and life, a zeitgeist, that I thought was impossible to capture in print. I was wrong. If you want to cook in a gutsy, honest, meat-centric, modernist aesthetic--then look no further." --ANDREW ZIMMERN, award-winning chef, author, and host of "Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern " "Eating at Joe Beef is the most heartwarming, delicious time you will have north of the border. Fred and David are truly talented artisans and gastronomes dedicated to flavor, technique, and downright old-world hospitality. Read this book; it'll make your mouth water." --FRANK CASTRONOVO and FRANK FALCINELLI, chefs/owners, Frankies Spuntino "This cookbook is crazy delicious, just like the restaurant--full of fun, flavor, philosophy, and food." --BONNIE STERN, founder, Bonnie Stern School of Cooking "Fred and Dave "sont des vrais" (are the real thing). They were hunting, fishing, foraging, butchering whole animals, and growing their own vegetables long before it was cool. I could go on about how these boys cook (like masters), but you'll discover that in these pages." --RIAD NASR, executive chef, Minetta Tavern ""The Art of Living According to Joe Beef" captures Fred and Dave's complete vision: their unique style of cooking and a warm and wacky atmosphere that always seems to be ahead of the curve. This is everything we love about Joe Beef, without having to fly to Montreal." --VINNY DOTOLO and JON SHOOK, Animal and Son of a Gun restaurants " " "Filled with historic facts, quirky cooking techniques, and food that holds nothing back, this book is overflowing with ingenuity. It reflects, indeed, the art of living according to Joe Beef." --CHUCK HUGHES, chef/owner, Garde Manger

Table of contents

Foreword by David Chang ix Introduction 1 Joe Beef of Montreal 6   Chapter 1: Building a Tiny Restaurant in the Middle of Nowhere 11 Foie Gras Parfait with Madeira Jelly 21 Marrowbones Cultivateur 23 Spaghetti Homard-Lobster 27 Oeufs en Pot 29 Scallops with Pulled Pork 30 Arctic Char for Two with Gulf of St. Lawrence Snow Crab 32 Foie Gras Breakfast Sandwich 34 Schnitzel of Pork 36 Pojarsky de Veau 38 Lièvre à la Royale 40 Lamb Paloise 43   Chapter 2: The Builders, the Brewers, the Bankers, and the Gangsters 45 Lamb Shoulder for Two, Condimint 54 Oeufs en Gelée 57 Duck Steak au Poivre 61 Pâté en Croûte 62 Blanquette de Veau aux Chicons 65 Filet de Cheval à Cheval 66 Pieds-Paquets with Sauce Charcutière 68 Brochette de Lapin aux Pruneaux 70 Profiteroles de Chèvre et Céleri, Purée de Tomates et Persil, R.I.P. Nicolas Jongleux 72 Veal Liver Brisket 74 Turbot au Vermouth de Chambéry 78 Époisses de Bourgogne à l’Echalotte 79   Chapter 3: Trains! 81 Fred’s Top Canadian Train Itineraries 86 Le Grand Setup de Caviar 91 Tiny Sausage Links 93 Canard et Saucisse 94 Dining Car Calf Liver 95 Pork Fish Sticks 97 Box of Pullman Loaf 98 Peameal Bacon 100 Chicken Jalfrezi 102 Beer Cheese 105 Lentils Like Baked Beans 106 New England Clam Chowder 107   Chapter 4: The Seaway Snack Bar 109 Hot Oysters on the Radio 120 Oysters #37 123 Mouclade 125 Squid Stuffed with Lobster 127 Smelt Mayonnaise 128 Whelks with Escargot Butter 131 Steamers 132   Smorgasbord Insert Black Pepper Crème Fraîche • Cucumber Salad • Dill Butter • Smoked Mackerel or Rainbow Trout •  Maple Smoked Kamouraska Eel • Pickled Eggs with Celery and Horseradish • Char Tartare •  Aquavit Onions • Cured Char with Gin • Nova Scotian “Salmon” Gundy • Potato Salad with Cider  Vinegar and Shallot • Smoked West Coast Oysters • Smoked Sturgeon and Scallops   Razor Clams Video Lottery Terminal, aka Clams Casino 133 Cornflake Eel Nuggets 134 Baked Common Crab 137 Mackerel Benedict 138   Chapter 5: The Smoker 141 Building Your Own Smoker 146 The Hot Délicieux Sandwich 151 Smoked Baby Back Ribs 153 Good Fries 154 Liverpool House Rabbit Sausage 156 Porchetta alla Joe Beef 158 Preserved Stone Fruits 161 Smoked Cheddar with Doughnuts 163   Tall Tales, Taste, and a Few Theories 166 Éclair Velveeta 170 • Ricotta Gnocchi with Rich and Tasty Red Sauce 171 • Joe Beef Double  Down 173 • Chicken Skin Jus 174 • Chicken Skin Tacos 175 • Purée de Fines Herbes 176 •  Mustard 176 • BBQ Sauce 176 • An Easy Hollandaise 177 • Sour Crudités 177 • Truffled Eggs  with Everything Biscuits and Watercress 178 • Purée de Pommes de Terre 180 • Polenta 181   Chapter 6: Building a Garden in a Crack Den 183 Parc Vinet Salad 190 Pickled Rhubarb 191 Salade d’Endive 191 Bagna Càuda and Aioli 192 Jerusalem Artichokes with Ketchup 195 Apple Vinny 196 Cider Turnips 196 Carrots with Honey 198 Baked Mushrooms with New (or Old!) Garlic 201 Herbes Salées 201 Kale for a Hangover 202 Cauliflower Gratin 203 Spring Beets 204 Petits Farcis 206   Chapter 7: A Word on Booze 209 The Vijay Singh 226 Roman Coke 226 Sausage Martini 226 The Master Cleanse 229 Gin ’n’ Jews 229 Bock Tomate 229 Robert Roy 230 The Raw Beef 230 Joe Beef César 230 Burdock Root Wine 232 Cold Mulled Wine 233 Making Your Own Absinthe 234   Chapter 8: Putting the “Beef” in Joe Beef 237 Strip Loin Steak 240 Côte de Boeuf 243 Zesty Italian Tartare 245 Daube de Joues de Boeuf Chaude (Hot) 246 Deviled Kidney and Hanger on Toast 247 Filet de Boeuf: The Postmodern Offal! 248 Beef Shank Stock 249 Montreal Steak Spice 250 Joe Beef Sauce Vin Rouge 250 Onion Soup Sauce 251 Gentleman Steak Sauce 251   Chapter 9: The Dessert Chariot 253 Marjolaine 255 O + G’s Cardamom Banana Bread 258 Ice Cream Base 260 Financiers 262 Panna Cotta 264 Éclairs 266 Merveilleux 270 Chaud Froid de Pamplemousse au Romarin 272   Montreal in Two Days 278 Acknowledgments 282 About the Authors & Photographer 285 Index 286