Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8000- Metre Peak

Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8000- Metre Peak

Book rating: 03 Paperback Vintage Classics

By (author) Maurice Herzog, Introduction by Joe Simpson

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  • Publisher: Vintage Classics
  • Format: Paperback | 272 pages
  • Dimensions: 128mm x 196mm x 20mm | 222g
  • Publication date: 6 June 2011
  • Publication City/Country: London
  • ISBN 10: 0099541467
  • ISBN 13: 9780099541462
  • Illustrations note: 1
  • Sales rank: 34,152

Product description

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY JOE SIMPSON. In 1950, no mountain higher than 8,000 meters had ever been climbed. Maurice Herzog and other members of the French Alpine Club resolved to try. This is the enthralling story of the first conquest of Annapurna and the harrowing descent. With breathtaking courage and grit manifest on every page, Annapurna is one of the greatest adventure stories ever told. As well as an introduction by Joe Simpson, this new edition includes 16 pages of photographs, which provide a remarkable visual record of this legendary expedition.

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Author information

The distinguished French mountaineer Maurice Herzog was leader of the 1950 expedition to Annapurna. He was one of the two climbers to reach the summit.

Customer reviews

By Agnese Mariotti 16 Nov 2011 3

A very involving and exciting account of the exploration and summiting of Annapurna. A bit too slow and repetitive in the description of the long and excruciating descent,but this change of pace very well reflects the change of mood and the new fears of the expedition. Herzog, strong and determined mountaineer also appears in his frailties in several episodes, like when carried away by the joy and absolute amazement of reaching the summit he carelessly loses his gloves at the start of the descent and with the gloves most of his fingers will later go. Three and a half stars.

Review quote

"'A classic of its kind... His vivid, high powered but never overdramatised account of the ascent still reads splendidly'" The Irish Times "After being swept off his feet by an avalanche and left dangling by a rope around his neck, Herzog 'began to pass water, violently and uncontrollably'. Your reaction may be only slightly less extreme as you move from one nail-biting moment to the next in this wonderful 1952 tale of triumph and frostbite." Outside "Quite simply the greatest mountaineering book ever written." Joe Simpson, from the Introduction "The climb took place before the Himalayas were a tourist attraction and before Gore-Tex cold-weather gear was available in Marks & Spencer. They had no oxygen, little food and on the descent Herzog lost his gloves, got trapped in a storm, was buried in an avalanche and became frostbitten. His descriptions don't stint on the details of maggot-ridden flesh and amputations without anaesthesia" -- Richard Eyre "Those who have never seen the Himalayas...will know that they have been a companion of greatness" New York Times Book Review